Welsh Journals

day they were at Denbigh, of which a pretty full account is given. He notes that: In the parish church of Denbigh [a mile from the town, now known as Whitchurch] is a bas relief of Lloyd [Humphrey Llwyd], the antiquary, who was before Camden." On August 2nd they went to Dymeirchion Church. It is the parish church of Bach y Graig. On they drove to Holywell. Holywell is a market town, neither small nor mean. The spring called Winifred's Well is very clear, and so copious that it yields one hundred tuns of water in a minute." On August 4th Ruthin was visited. Ruthin Castle is still a very noble ruin; all the walls still remain, so that a compleat platform, and elevations, not very imperfect, may be taken." On the 5th he dined at Mr. Myddelton's of Gwaenygog. After dinner, the talk was of preserving the Welsh language. I offered them a scheme I recommended the republication of David ap Rhees's Welsh grammar." No further details are given of the scheme." On the 7th a visit to Bodfari Church. On the 8th The Bishop and much company dined at Lleweney. Talk of Greek-and the Army." On the 10th, At Lloyd's, of Maesmynnan." The 14th: "At Bodfari I heard the second lesson read, and the sermon preached in Welsh The sound of the Welsh, in a continued dis- course, is not unpleasant." After a day at home (the 15th), a long procession was started on the 16th. We came to Abergeleu, a mean town, in which little but Welsh is spoken." Then along the sea-side (the coach going along a steep higher road past Penmaen Rhos to Conway Ferry, and then to Penmaen Mawr, where for- tunately they found a way, lately made, very easy and very safe," and came to Bangor, where we found a very mean inn.. I lay in a room, where the other bed had two men." Next day, at Beaumaris, I was accosted by Mr. Lloyd, the schoolmaster of Beaumaris, who had seen me at University College [Oxford]." Lord Bulkeley's house is very mean, but his garden is spacious." The Castle, a mighty pile is described. At Caernarvon the next day we met Paoli [the Corsican General] and Sir Thomas Wynne. They visited the Castle, but We saw but a very small part of this mighty ruin I did not think there had been such buildings; it surpassed my ideas." On the 21st they were at church at Carnarvon. Next day, We went to visit Bodville, the place where Mrs. Thrale was born, and the churches called Tydweilliog and Llangwinodyl, which she holds by impropriation." On the 24th We went to visit Bodville again. Mrs. Thrale remem- bered the rooms We surveyed the Churches [Tydweiliog and Llangwnadl], which are mean, and neglected to a degree scarcely imaginable. The Methodists are here very prevalent. A better Church will impress the people with more reverence of public worship." We went to Pwllheli, a mean old town, at the extremity of the county." On the 25th We returned to Caernarvon." Next day's note must be quoted in full, as it raises the question whether Johnson ascended Snowdon or not. We visited, with Mrs. Wynne, Llyn Badarn and Llyn Beris,* two lakes, joined by a narrow strait. They are formed by the waters which fall from Snowdon and the opposite mountains. On the side of Snowdon are the remains of a large fort, to which we climbed with great labour. I was breathless and harrassed. The Lakes have no great breadth, so that the boat is always near one bank or the other." It has been assumed by many writers that Johnson ascended Y Wyddfa itself. But it is clear that he did not do so. He was now in his 65th year, obese, and, as repeated entries in the Diary show, in very poor health. Moreover, he could hardly have walked up and down during the time. What he seems to have ascended was the very moderately high grounds of Dolbadarn Castle. On the 27th they returned to Bangor, and on the 28th We went to worship at the Cathedral. The quire is mean, the service was not well read." On the 29th they travelled to Conway, where we took a short survey of the Castle, which afforded us nothing new, "-that is, after Beaumaris and Carnarvon,-and came to the house of Mr. Myddelton, where we staid to September 6th, and were very kindly enter- tained." Here it must be noted that, to per- petuate the recollection of Dr. Johnson's visit, Mr. Myddelton erected an urn on the banks of a rivulet, in the park, where Johnson delighted to stand and recite verses. On the urn is this inscription: "This spot was often dignified by the presence of Samuel Johnson, LL.D., whose Moral Writings, exactly conformable to the Precepts of Christianity, gave Ardour to Virtue, and confidence to Truth." Then the Thrales and Johnson proceeded to Wrexham-" a busy, extensive, and well built town. It has a very large and magnificent church. It has a famous fair." On the 7th we came to Chirk Castle," and on the 8th to the house of Dr. Worthing- ton [the rector] at Llanrhaiadr. The town is old and very mean, but has, I think, a market. In this town, the Welsh translation of the Old Testament was made. The Welsh singing Psalms were written by Archdeacon Price [Prys]. They are not considered as elegant, but as very literal, and accurate." The next day (Sept. 9), We visited the Waterfall, which is very high, and in rainy weather very copious. There is a reservoir made to supply it." Then comes the final entry so far as Wales is con- cerned: When we came back, we took some cold meat, and notwithstanding the Doctor's importunities, went that day to Shrewsbury." He needlessly and incorrectly mutated Padarn and Peris.